Catania – The black city in the shadow of fire

Ciao,

and welcome to another piece in Florian’s travel mosaic.

Our journey today takes us to the southern end of Europe, to the island of Sicily and the city of Catania.

I visited Catania last year as part of a longer nature and culture trip to Sicily and want to show and tell you about it today.

Come along and escape from everyday life in the black city, to the quieter or louder places and a world that you don’t see every day.

What attracts me to Catania?

Here I can summarize it in three words:

It is the “movement of contrasts.

Catania as a city is
and has always been a place
of upheavals and contrasts.

And this is both
human and continental.

Originally founded by Greek settlers, the city has been conquered and occupied several times in its history, including by the Romans.

Its location near the Etna volcano means that the city has always been exposed to great destruction.

In 1669, for example, it was largely destroyed and rebuilt in the Baroque style.

And that brings me back to the context, which is not really a context.

The city is always on the move, in its streets and alleyways. Life pulsates there and you can always feel this attitude to life in every new street or with the people you meet.

When something was destroyed in history, it was rebuilt. Sometimes in new architectural styles or in other ways.

And then the population leads an everyday life in the shadow of Mount Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in Europe. Day after day.

If we think of it together, we have a life close to danger and change in the city against the volcano.

That is my idea of Catania, the movement of opposites.

Now, of course, you might think that the Catanesi are anxious people or that they have simply resigned themselves to their fate, which can change at any time.

If I have to describe my impression exactly, I have to say.

I tend to think the opposite.

In our life situations, we often think that we have a basis and are safe.

But objectively speaking, none of us are.

And you may live even more intensely if you are aware of a danger, even if it is latent.

The locals have probably chosen the elephant as the symbol of their city to reinforce this. Even though it is not indigenous, it stands for strength and resilience.

For myself, I can only say that this feeling has even rubbed off on me a little.

Even on Mount Etna, I felt safe and alive. And that has no religious background.

When you are open, you get a positive feeling, which makes you enjoy and not think of fear.

And that’s how I think you approach the Catanesi.

Relaxed and with a certain blurriness that makes both you and the others feel good. Just let yourself drift.

Things to see in Catania and insights into its history

Of course, due to the multitude of possibilities on our tour, our city trip, I can only go into the points that were special to me during my wanderings.

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

But my destinations are always the places off the beaten track. Sometimes they are probably touristy, but not everyone has these places on their radar.

The location and significance

Catania is located on the east coast of the island of Sicily on the Ionian Sea. This part of the Mediterranean stretches along the entire east coast of the island from north to south.

The city is the second largest city on the island after Palermo and is home to an international airport that connects it to many international destinations. I also flew there and back via Catania.

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

In addition to its economic importance for the region, it is also a place of science. This world finds expression at the University of Catania, founded in 1434 and one of the oldest universities in Italy.

The black city…

Why is Catania called the black city?

Don’t worry, the visible ground color in the city isn’t even black and the people aren’t all painted or covered in soot.

The explanation for this nickname is only apparent at second glance, which is very exciting for me again.

Black basalt.

This material is a volcanic rock that has been used in many places in the city, including the houses and squares.

Earthquakes are a consequence of volcanic activity and basalt is more resistant to earthquakes than other types of stone. The material provides excellent insulation, is strong and durable.

The city even has the practical benefit of its proximity to the volcano.

But because of this high degree of black rock, Catania is obviously called the black city.

Even if you can see from the pictures that the cityscape doesn’t look unusual as a result.

The dark color is usually under the cover and not immediately visible. But when you can see it, I find it quite aesthetically interesting. Look out for it when you’re there.

.. but so colourful

Let yourself be whisked away for a moment.

We move into the city in traffic. It’s loud, fast and a bit stressful.

It’s warm outside and you’re sweating in the heat.

When you finally arrive near the city center, you park your car and take a deep breath.

Relax now.

You take your first steps on cobblestones and feel the warmth of the stone under your soles.

Then turn left into the Giardini Bellini, a small park with beautiful trees in the middle of the city.

You will pass the headless statue of Ippolito De’Lignami, a Sicilian historian whose statue lost its head during a volcanic eruption in the 19th century.

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

Once you reach the edge of the green oasis, turn into a cobbled street again.

You walk eagerly towards the archway of a baroque building and pass through the dark passageway.

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

When you emerge from the darkness into the light again, you notice 2 people on your left looking upwards.

The same on the right-hand side. The people are looking upwards.

When you turn your gaze upwards, you see dozens of umbrellas in various colors in the sunshine between the buildings.

I was absolutely thrilled at the sight of it and was immediately captivated by it, as were the other people around me.

The Umbrella Sky Project

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

Catania is one of the cities in which the so-called Umbrella Sky Project was implemented.

I’m always happy to see so many interesting community projects being implemented in Italy and this is one of them.

Imagine it like this. In the streets of the city, ropes are stretched between the buildings, on which hundreds of umbrellas of different shapes and colors are attached.

If you’re wondering now. Why umbrellas?

This project is an art project with the aim of beautifying city centers and giving them a creative expression. And I think this is an absolute success.

But apart from the purely artistic aspect, there are two other reasons that I find absolutely coherent.

The symbolism of umbrellas

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

One aim of the project is to use the symbolism of umbrellas. We use umbrellas every day for protection and that’s exactly how we see them. As a source of protection.

And I think that, especially in a city like Catania near a volcano, so many protective givers have an important symbolism. They convey an additional pleasant feeling.

The shadow of the umbrellas

We are at the southern end of Europe in the Mediterranean and temperatures reach very difficult levels for us, especially in summer.

Of course, this also applies to the locals, even if they are more used to the temperatures.

But the umbrellas also have the additional function of providing shade to make the climatic conditions more pleasant for visitors and locals.

If you think about it all together, I think it’s a very intelligent combination of art and practical use. Optimally done.

The Piazza del Duomo

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

Anyone who reads this term first thinks of the cathedral. In the case of Catania, this is St. Agathe.

In addition to the cathedral, however, I noticed two other buildings that make the square in front of the church something special.

Cross Via Giuseppe Garibaldi and enter the square.

You see the magnificent façade and the portal of the cathedral in front of you and suddenly you hear a “stereo splashing”.

Yes, there are fountains on both your left and right.

And both have their own history.

The Fontana dell’Elefante (Elephant Fountain)

On the left, you can see the Elephant Fountain.

This is not only a landmark of the city, but also a very peculiar combination.

It consists of an obelisk enthroned on the back of a black stone elephant.

The obelisk is a remnant from Roman times and the elephant dates from the 16th century and was originally intended as a landmark for the university.

So here, antiquity and modern times have been brought together with two building blocks that were not intended for such a combination. Exciting stuff!

The Fontana dell’Amenano (Amenano Fountain)

The fountain on the right is also special in its own way.

It is a good 100 years younger than its counterpart and simply bears the name of the river that runs through the city.

However, it seems to me that the water is always moving a lot.

It runs down over the statues and stones, flowing and splashing in all directions.

I think this design and arrangement convey a kind of liveliness.

It is also a refreshment on hot days and these water features are always good for a video.

It was also built from lava stone to symbolize the connection with the name and water of the river.

The Castello Ursino

One of the things I really like about Italy is its castellos.

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

This shape with the round, defiant towers at the corners and the reinforcement sloping downwards.

You see this type of construction a lot in Italy. It is typical for the country.

But there are three other things I like about this particular Castello besides its design.

It was first built by Frederick II, a German ruler, to protect the city and the region. So it was built by a German.

Secondly, you can walk around the fort and see it from all sides. There is nothing anywhere to obstruct the path or the view.

But the third point is the most exciting for me. It’s the change to the fortress and the “move”.

What do I mean by that?

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

Well, the fortress was built for coastal defense of the Ionian Sea and now it stands in the middle of the city.

But the fortress itself has not moved at all. Every stone is still in place, so to speak.

Since its construction, however, the surroundings have changed due to displacements and volcanic activity in such a way that the fortress has moved from the sea coast inland without changing its actual position.

Surprising, isn’t it?

Some people are familiar with this from the town of Jever in northern Germany, which was transformed from a coastal town in the Middle Ages into an inland port by the silting up of the North Sea.

The Teatro Romano di Catania

You can’t talk about Italy without touching on Roman history.

Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

And that’s what I like to do with the Teatro Romano.

I didn’t come across this impressive ruin on purpose, but by chance, after a stroll through the market.

If you simply walk along the street from the cathedral square, it suddenly appears behind a corner on the left.

I noticed the portal in front, standing somewhat lonely and alone in the square.

Only when you get closer do you see that the theater is behind the portal in the ground.

If you walk past to the left or right, you are standing above the ancient complex, which is not just a tourist attraction today.

If you look closely, you will discover cables and lights.

Proof that the complex is still being used to entertain spectators today, almost 2,000 years after it was built.

I can well imagine that a performance in the midst of this historical backdrop is certainly a special experience for everyone.

Mount Etna

This highest active volcano in Europe can be seen from Catania, the surrounding area and even from the air, with a height of around 3,357 meters.

Catania 27

The height is an exciting thing, because its height is constantly changing due to its brisk activity and its small and large outbursts. Which means that the value may have already changed by the time you read my article here.

According to geologists, it has also played a key role in the history of the earth and is regularly used for scientific studies.

It made a very majestic impression on me. Not only from a distance, but also up close.

These pictures were taken from a viewpoint at the end of the tree line.

The first difference you notice immediately at this altitude is the temperature.

We had a temperature difference of at least 15 degrees Celsius compared to the valley and had to put on our jackets.

The temperature is also accompanied by a strong wind, which makes it feel even colder.

The second point is the lunar landscape.

Sure, you get that on many high mountains and volcanoes at the tree line, but in this case it was still a new experience for me.

Because the stones and scree are pitch black here too.

Catania 29

To tell you how I felt about it.

When you look down, you see a completely black floor with black stones and have the feeling that you are on a dark planet.

At the same time, you are standing in the full light of the high-altitude sun with a slight upward glance.

As if the sensation of your surroundings were being shared in the center of your body.

It was a very interesting experience for me.

The special relationship between mountain and city

At some points during our tour, you must have asked yourself “If it’s dangerous to be near the volcano, why do people live there at all?”

The answer is relatively simple.

It is a give and take.

The mountain takes a lot with its destruction.

But he also gives a lot with what he distributes with his outbursts.

The liquid rock and the many minerals from the earth’s interior combine with the soil and ensure rich and fertile harvests.

Another example is the aforementioned black basalt, which is used as a building material.

Not forgetting tourism, which also benefits the town due to its proximity to the mountain.

In this way, people benefit from the mountain just as much as it represents an ever-present latent danger.

Tips for your trip

Here are a few personal tips for you and your city trip to Catania.

Catania the black City
Florian's Journey - Mosaic 2 - Catania The black city in the shadow of fire
Florians Reisemosaik-Catania - Die schwarze Stadt im Schatten des Feuers

The Pescheria of Catania

The city’s interesting and lively fish market has a long tradition dating back to the Middle Ages.

I only heard that you can find a very lively and somewhat chaotic atmosphere there. I can confirm this directly after my visit.

It is a pleasant chaos amidst the traders on offer and the Sicilian flair. Highly recommended.

Not only if you are looking for delicious fish, because there is much more to discover there. The market is normally open every morning.

You will find the fish market near the Fontana dell’Amenano, behind the Piazza del Duomo.

Hotels

The tip I have already mentioned elsewhere also fits here.

Decide according to your situation.

In Catania itself there are many beautiful and interesting hotels, from budget to luxury class.

Some of these are housed in historic buildings. Anyone interested in these surroundings is sure to find something.

Depending on the season and equipment, there are interesting prices and good deals online on the usual portals.

I myself spent my stay in Sicily in an Airbnb. (1) I generally like doing this, as you are free and unbound in a vacation apartment and don’t have to stick to breakfast times or anything of the sort.

I appreciate the freedom and this app and others offer an abundance of beautiful houses and apartments all over the island of Sicily.

You can enjoy life in the countryside just as much as in the city.

So, decide for yourself what you are looking for.

Both variants offer a lot and are affordable with a good ratio.

Thank you for your attention and company on our tour Catania the black city in the shadow of the fire.

Feel free to visit Basel and other places with me, which will follow soon in my blog.

Pleasant travel and many discoveries

Florian

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